Hallyu – The South Korean Wave
By Linda Garson
A couple of years ago, the most popular food trends for new restaurant openings were pizza, bubble tea, and Korean (when we say ‘Korea’, we are referring to South Korea), and guess what? Nothing has changed!
We’ve talked at length about Alberta’s love of pizza as well as bubble tea – and now with so many new Korean restaurants opening, it’s Korea’s turn to shine. But why has it become so prevalent? The culinary traditions have evolved over centuries, but it’s only in this century, with easily available internet, social media - sites like Spotify and YouTube – and the rise of delivery services, that Korean culture has been promoted worldwide because of the Korean wave (‘Hallyu’), which includes K-pop (rapper Psy’s 2012 ‘Gangnam Style’ was the first YouTube video to be viewed a billion times!) K-dramas, and yes - Korean cuisine.
So let’s take a closer look. At the heart of Korean food culture is communal eating. We have many Korean BBQ restaurants where people will grill meats together and eat ‘banchan’, small – usually vegetable - side dishes and pickles that come with the dish. And ‘jang’, the fermented sauces and pastes used in cooking, such as gochujang (fermented chili paste that packs some heat), doenjang (like miso, a fermented soybean paste), and ganjang (wheat-free soy sauce), that balance the sweet, spicy, sour, and umami flavours. You’ll also notice a distinct lack of dairy in Korean cuisine.
So what are the most popular dishes to look out for?
Fried chicken – the other KFC (Korean Fried Chicken!) has become popular all over the world for its super crunchy batter, usually a potato starch base, and double-fried to be extra crispy. It was likely introduced by US soldiers in the 50s during the Korean war, and in the 70s, when the country experienced a period of rapid economic growth, demand for fast food increased and we saw the first fried chicken restaurants. It became even more popular in 1984 when Kentucky Fried Chicken opened across Korea.
Bibimbap is perhaps one of the most well known Korean dishes: a bowl of cooked rice topped with sautéed vegetables such as mushrooms, carrots, zucchini, spinach, and beansprouts, and marinaded meat – usually thinly sliced beef. A sunny-side-up fried egg goes on top, and it’s finished with a sprinkle of sesame seeds and the addictive sweet-spicy bibimbap sauce made from gochujang, sesame oil, soy sauce, mirin, and sugar.
Kimbap is a Korean mainstay found in grocery and convenience stores everywhere for snacks on the go. Translated as seaweed (kim) and rice (bap), it looks like sushi but it has its own identity – the rice is seasoned with sesame oil and you don’t use wasabi or soy sauce. As kimbap doesn’t use raw fish fillings, it keeps longer and doesn’t have to be eaten the same day.
Kimchi is spicy and sour fermented veggies, usually napa cabbage amongst others, that is served as banchan, or incorporated into other dishes such as jeon - a savoury pancake, jjigae - Korean stew, and fried rice.
Bulgogi is thinly sliced meat, most commonly beef, marinated in a sweet and savoury sauce, and grilled or barbequed. It’s used as a topping for bibimbap and in kimbap - and these days in tacos!
Japchae is a dish of stir-fried glass noodles made from sweet potatoes, with vegetables and marinated meat in a soy and sesame-based sauce.
Galbi means ‘ribs’, and is usually beef short ribs marinaded in a sweet sesame soy sauce, and grilled or barbequed.
At Calgary’s Korilla Korean BBQ, owner and chef Simon Park lets his past come through in the food he cooks. Born in Korea and raised in California, he eventually traded the bright lights of the Las Vegas strip for the endless skies of the Saskatchewan prairies. “I’ve travelled to may countries to experience different cultures. Those multicultural experiences have had an effect on my food.”
His favourite on Korilla’s menu? Daeji Galbi (galbi marinated pork shoulder): “In Korea, Daeji Galbi is very popular but each restaurant has a different flavour. It’s a very traditional dish but the galbi marinade is enjoyed worldwide,” he continues. While Korean food looks difficult to many, Chef Simon says the secret is having the right recipe for a marinade or a sauce.
“This is my L.A. Galbi recipe, a very authentic Korean marinade.” He adds that the temperature of the pan is important when cooking, to get the flavour of the finished dish right. “Don’t cook the meat before the pan is ready.”
“Don’t think Korean dishes are complicated. It’s very simple to make a traditional flavour, and I hope readers aren’t afraid of trying this and other Korean recipes.”
The dishes you’ll find at Calgary’s Tiger K are one part Culinary Creative Director Sharon Choe, and one part Executive Chef Tomo Mitsuno. Blending Choe’s Japanese-Korean heritage and Chef Tomo’s experience, the result is what Choe calls “unique Korean flavours that are exclusive to Calgary, blending elements of both Western and Japanese cuisine.”
Designing a menu around Choe’s favourite dishes means that every dish is her favourite, and you can bet they all start with quality ingredients, something that Choe says is most important. “Use fresh vegetables, good soy sauce, and, if possible, find Korean essentials like gochujang and sesame oil at local Asian markets.” She adds that you can’t rush the process, especially with dishes like bulgogi or soups.
Kimchi is another dish that traditionally relies on time for the fermentation process. Here, Choe shares her recipe for Instant Kimchi. “I picked this dish as the recipe is perfect for beginners who aren’t yet accustomed to the strong, fermented taste of traditional kimchi.” Follow the recipe and use exact portions as listed and avoid adjusting the amount of gochugaru. “If you prefer less spice, try using the less spicy brand for a milder flavour.”
Korea’s four distinct seasons are the inspiration behind Chef Hun’s cooking at Edmonton’s SANG. Each season offers different ingredients at their peak, he explains, using them to create dishes that are a blend of traditional Korean flavours with a modern touch. “I also enjoy experimenting with Canadian ingredients and take inspiration from local foods that I experience first-hand.”
Take, for example, Hun’s favourite dish at SANG, Beef Tartare and Gimbap. “The chewy and savoury taste of the beef tartare pairs perfectly with the vegetables in the gimbap, making it a fulfilling and wholesome meal.”
“The essence of Korean cooking lies in its jang (fermented pastes),” he adds. Soy sauce, doenjang, and gochujang are all fermented over long periods of time giving them their rich umami taste. Using these pastes will help cooks recreate the authentic, deep flavours of Korean cuisine. His recipe for Doenjang Chicken Maekjeok (Soybean Marinated Chicken) makes good use of soybean paste, removing unwanted odours and tenderizing the meat.
He adds, “Since barbecuing is popular in Canada, I thought this recipe would allow people to enjoy a familiar barbecue dish with a Korean twist, making Korean cuisine more approachable.”
Co-owner of Hanjan Restaurant & Bar in Edmonton, Sam Kyungeun Lee learned a lot about cooking from his business partner and mother, Lisa. “Growing up we didn't have a lot, but my mom is very resourceful and knew how to throw down in the kitchen, so my sisters and I were blessed to always come home to a delicious and comforting meal.”
When it comes to making Korean food, Lee reminds us that our hands are our greatest tools. “Whether you’re mixing banchan, marinating meats or peeling garlic, don’t be afraid to really get in the food with your hands!”
Growing up in Sanbon, Korea, Lee has many memories associated with his mother and food. His recipe for Dotori Mook (Acorn Jelly) reminds him of hiking a mountain with his mother. “During our hike I would gather as many acorns as I could and ask my mom to make me dotori mook. It was and still is one of my favourite dishes.”
Similar to tofu in both texture and versatility, dotori mook is often eaten cold and served with a soy-based dressing. “It’s slightly earthy, but mostly neutral,” explains Lee. “Don’t be afraid if you don’t have all the ingredients for the sauce. Dig into your cabinets and try your own combination. And if it works well, please send me the recipe!”
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