By Linda Garson and Keane Straub with Janine Windolph
We have long held the belief that one of the most fascinating and rewarding ways to learn about a culture is through the food of the people: the available ingredients that influence the style of the cuisine; the method of cooking, seasoning, serving, and eating, that all add to our understanding of what life is like in different places – and the hope that a greater understanding leads to a greater appreciation for it.
It was during a recent conversation about Indigenous cuisine with Janine Windolph (Atikamekw/Woodland Cree), and Director of Indigenous Arts at the Banff Centre for Arts and Creativity, that a lightbulb went on – of course when we’re talking about Indigenous cuisine it isn’t one thing across the country – how could it be? Salmon isn’t local to Alberta, and neither is muskox or cloudberries – we have bison and saskatoon berries!
Further investigation reveals six broad geographical regions for First Nations people based on their traditional cultures: Arctic, Sub-Arctic, Northwest Coast, Plateau, Great Plains, and Northeast, and so we set out to understand more of the ingredients indigenous to each of these areas, as well as talk to Indigenous chefs to ask them about their ingredients. It isn’t simple: there are around 630 First Nations communities across Canada, representing more than 50 nations and dozens of Indigenous languages.
“Indigenous cuisine is fluid, it's active, embodies stories, and is continuously evolving with each generation of Indigenous chefs,” explains Windolph. “Within their dishes and their hospitality practices they weave together the past, the present and the future.” And Indigenous peoples have lost so much of their written history and culture that now it’s mostly spoken rather than set down in writing.
Indigenous people have been gathering as families and nations to trade for thousands of years. “It was here that feasting, ceremonies, hunting, foraging, and trade took place with other Indigenous people's from Turtle Island,” Windolph says. Sacred Buffalo Guardian Mountain, in Banff, is one such place, having been a meeting place for all that time, and just one of many locations where this type of gathering took place.
“Presently, the exchange of ingredients is easier to find and accessible in grocery stores, farmers’ markets, even sourced by Indigenous foragers, farmers and hunters. Indigenous chefs, cooks, and caterers are continuing to foster the spirit of reciprocity, exchange, and celebration with their menu options that highlight their cultural and regional ingredients,” she adds.
September 30th is Orange Shirt Day, The National Day for Truth and Reconciliation, and a day to remind us of the residential schools and honour the healing journey of survivors and their families. This article is by no means all-inclusive, but we hope you also gain a greater understanding and appreciation of Indigenous cuisine, the chefs, and their stories.
Additional Resources
We have only scratched the surface of Indigenous cuisine here, and there are many resources available for a greater understanding. To learn more, check out:
tawâw: Progressive Indigenous Cuisine by Shane Chartrand
[pronounced ta-WOW]: Come in, you’re welcome, there’s room.
strongnations.com/store/8153/tawaw-progressive-indigenous-cuisine
Inez Cook’s story:
cbc.ca/player/play/video/9.4214032
eaglespeaker.com/store/sixties-scoop-reconnection
Culinary Tourism Alliance
Canada Culinary celebrates Canadian food and drink by highlighting the people, places, and stories that define it. Their website is a terrific resource for Indigenous food experiences across the country: canadaculinary.com/search/?query=Indigenous
Spectacular Northwest Territories
is the website for Northwest Territories Tourism and is full of fascinating stories and information on Indigenous experiences.
First Nations Health Authority (FNHA)
The FNHA is the health and wellness partner to over 200 First Nations communities and citizens across BC. They produce ‘Traditional Food Fact Sheets’, a fascinating book you can download at:
fnha.ca/Documents/Traditional_Food_Fact_Sheets.pdf
Indigenous Awareness Canada
offers Online Indigenous Awareness Training for everyone to learn about Canada’s Indigenous People:
Canadian Bison
The Canadian Bison website includes bison recipes and cooking tips as well as more resources
canadianbison.ca/consumers/enjoying-bison/cooking-tips
Also: thecanadianencyclopedia.ca and britannica.com/topic/Plateau-Indian
Click on the images below to explore Indigenous chefs and their regionally-inspired cuisine!
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